John & Sally Mc Kenna's "100 Best in Ireland 99":

"The classics live happily alongside the iconoclastic in Terry McCoy?s Redbank restaurant. Crudites and periwinkles are properly served as you have an aperitif and choose from the menu. You are shown properly to your table,and the service of food is very correct,very much old school,culminating in a choice of desserts from the trolley. Blessed old dessert trolleys!

But the iconoclastic are there, too. Chinese style squid is not the sort of thing you might find cooked by a chef of Mc Coy tenure- more than 15 years at the stove-but it is vigorous and funky and fun, a very clever piece of work,and typical of the new things he likes to try out from time to time.

But, truth to be told, his inclination is towards to great dishes of the past-scallops with butter, cream and white wine, entrecote RedBank, with its convincing blast of mushrooms, tomatoes, garlic cream and parsley: cram meat baked with cream and sherry: lobster thermidor: He sources exceptional local,thanks to his location and he just knows what to do with it, and the charming,solicitous service and comfortable rooms make up just the right venue in which to enjoy this ageless food. Anyone making the trip to Skerries should know that Mc Coy has opened a 12 bedroom en -suite very comfortable and stylish townhouse which will allow you to have another bottle of Redbank cabernet sauvignon without having to worry about driving home."

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